Dog Days of Summer + Chocolate-Chocolate Cookies


oscar cherry beach

sleep in

The dogs days of summer are a good excuse to slow down, be lazy, and eat out a lot. We haven’t had granola in the house for weeks, it’s been too hot to turn on the oven. Strangely enough it’s never too hot to make a batch of Momofuku Milk Bar cookies, especially if they’re chocolate-chocolate cookies. 

momofuku milk bar chocolate chocolate cookie

These cookies are rich and fudgy like a brownie, but not overly sweet, with pops of kosher salt. Like all the Momofuku Milk Bar cookie recipes there’s always that additional step that makes you inwardly groan. Their peanut butter cookies call for you to make your own peanut brittle, then pulverize it in a food processor before adding it to the cookie dough. The chocolate-chocolate cookies call for a chocolate crumb, which really isn’t difficult at all. You simply stir melted butter into some dry ingredients, then bake for 20 minutes. Do not skip this step, you need these chocolatey nuggets. While the crumb was baking, J who does not appreciate sweets at all commented that the whole apartment smelled like jellybeans or Turkish delight; the correct adjective would have been chocolatey.

We went to see Wes Anderson’s latest film Moonrise Kingdom that evening. Munching on these cookies in the dark with friends in the theatre was the best possible way they could have been enjoyed.

Milk Bar chocolate-chocolate cookie_balls

Chocolate-Chocolate Cookies

From Momofuku Milk Bar by Christina Tosi

First begin by making the chocolate crumb. The crumb must cool completely (thus hardening) before being added to the cookie dough. It doesn’t take long to cool, about 20 minutes when removed from the hot baking sheet. Half a batch of the chocolate crumb recipe is called for, but I make a full batch and freeze the other half for subsequent use. The crumb will keep for 1 month in the fridge or freezer. Please note the amounts given below are for a full batch of crumb. If you’d like to make only the amount needed for one batch of cookies, divide the amounts given in half. I strongly recommend using the weight measurements, but I have also listed the volume measurements for those who do not have a scale.

Chocolate Crumb

105 g (2/3 cup) flour
4 g (1 tsp) cornstarch
100 g (1/2 cup) sugar
65 g (2/3 cup) cocoa powder, preferably Valrhona
4 g (1 tsp) kosher salt
85 g (6 tbsp) butter, melted

Preheat oven to 300°F.

Combine all ingredients except for butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment and paddle on low until mixed.

Add the melted butter and paddle on low until the mixture comes together in small clusters.

Spread clusters on a parchment or Silpat lined baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. After 20 minutes the crumbs will still be slightly moist, but will harden as they cool.

Let crumbs cool completely before using in recipe.

Momofuku Milk Bar chocolate_crumb

Chocolate-Chocolate Cookies

Makes 15 to 20 cookies.

225 g (2 sticks) butter
300 g (1 1/2 cups) sugar
100 g (1/4 cup) glucose

1 egg
1 g (1/4 tsp) vanilla extract
60 g (2 ounces) 55% chocolate, melted

200 g (1 1/4 cups) flour
100 g (3/4 cup) cocoa powder, preferably Valrhona
3 g (3/4 tsp) baking powder
1.5 g (1/4 tsp) baking soda
7 g (1 3/4 tsp) kosher salt

1/2 batch of chocolate crumb (recipe above)

Combine butter, sugar and glucose in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Cream together on medium-high for 2-3 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl, add egg, vanilla, and melted chocolate, beat on high for 7-8 minutes. At this point the creamed mixture will look like a pale chocolate mousse.


Reduce speed to low and add flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Mix just until the dough comes together, no longer than 1 minute. Scrape down sides of bowl.

Still on low, add chocolate crumbs and mix just until incorporated, 30 seconds.

Using an ice cream scoop portion out dough onto parchment lined sheet pan. Tosi’s recipe portions out 10 to 15 cookies. But as these are very rich cookies, I prefer to make 20 smaller ones using a #24/1.3 ounce scoop (Tosi uses a #16/2.75 ounce scoop). These bake into cookies that are roughly 3 1/2 inches in diameter.

Wrap sheet pan of cookie dough balls well with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and up to 1 week. The dough must be well chilled before baking.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375°F.

Arrange chilled dough on parchment or Silpat lined sheet pans with plenty of space in between them, 6 cookies per pan, they will spread. Bake for 16-18 minutes, rotating pans half way through. Let cookies cool completely on sheet pans. Your kitchen will smell like the best place on Earth.

The fudgy texture of these cookies is at its peak for up to one day after baking. They will keep for five days, but with each passing day the cookies lose some of their chewiness. If you’re not going to be eating all 20 cookies within a few days, I recommend baking only a portion of the prepared cookie dough at a time, as the dough can rest in the fridge for up to 1 week.

momofuku milk bar chocolate chocolate cookie

Photos: by me, except last photo by J.

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